tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2008-07-01:/rv7//5 2012-02-06T07:53:34Z Movable Type Open Source 4.1 tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.904 2012-02-06T07:40:18Z 2012-02-06T07:53:34Z

Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


Next up, I mixed up some epoxy with flox and riveted the upper flanges on to the snorkel.



The rivets are flush on the inside (mostly) so that they don't interfere with the air filter.



On the outside, small washers were slipped over the rivet shanks before pulling to spread the load out on the glass.



Finally, I mixed up some proseal and sealed the corners between the flanges to prevent air leaks around the filter.



]]> tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.903 2012-01-30T07:37:44Z 2012-01-30T09:47:37Z

Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


I cut out the opening for the air filter.  This is significantly undersized and the opening will be made large enough to install the air filter from the top.



I then reworked the conical gusset a bit.  This is not normally installed with the snorkel, but I really didn't like the way the cowl inlet intersection worked without it, so I'm going this route.  The edge of the gusset will cover up a very small amount of the filter, but there will be enough of a gap that air can still flow through the entire filter.  I replaced the aft most rivet in the gusset with an AN515-8R8 screw that goes through the ramp and snorkel mounting flange.  I added a second screw between the next two rivets forward (which both had to be reversed so that the flush head is on the bottom so that the shop heads don't interfere with the filter flange).



There's a third screw at the forward end of the flange, but this screw installs from the bottom because of the conical gusset.  The nutplates are K1100-08 for the flush head screws.



You can see that this screw goes in to a K1000-08 nutplate that I mounted under the conical gusset.  I used an AN509-8R6 screw because of the tight clearance.



The other flange just has some more AN515-8R8 screws.  I'll add a third screw at the forward end after I figure out how I'm going to deal with the bracket in the lower left.



I also replaced 6 of the rivets along the aft edge with ones that are flush along the bottom side since the aft snorkel mounting flange sits against this surface.



I then drilled three additional holes for AN509-8R8 screws that attach the aft snorkel mounting flange.



I also installed some K1000-08 nutplates along this flange.



Next up, I drill a 2 5/8" hole in the side of the snorkel for the alternate air entry.



This flange will be mounted here and a pivoting cover will seal the opening under normal circumstances.  If the air filter were to become clogged, I could open this door from the cockpit.



The flange is drilled to the snorkel.  The center hole in the bottom of the flange needs to be match drilled to the snorkel using a #19 drill and then later opened up to 1/4" in the snorkel so that the nutplate can fit through the hole.



Finally, I sanded and cleaned the surface and flange, then clecoed it down with some epoxy mixed with flox.  I then roughly faired in the flange so that there is a nice transition to the snorkel.  The flox leaves a fairly rough surface though; I'll use some filler to smooth this out nicely after it cures.



]]> tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.902 2012-01-25T07:37:44Z 2012-01-30T09:08:42Z

Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


I purchased a couple of these flanges for 3/4" SCAT tubing from someone on Van's Air Force.  I put a socket inside the flange to help center it in the hole.



Here's where the flange will mount on the bottom of the ramp.



I wrapped a few layers of electrical tape around the socket to perfectly center it in the hole since the fit was a little loose.  This worked like crap, don't even bother.  I ended up having to drill new holes in the flange because it was so far off center.  Instead, just eyeball it and clamp it in place.  That worked perfectly.



]]> tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.901 2012-01-21T07:38:51Z 2012-01-22T01:50:45Z

Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


Here's how the air filter will sit in the top of the snorkel.  I'll need to cut most of the inlet ramp away to allow air into the filter.



]]> tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.900 2012-01-20T07:49:01Z 2012-01-20T09:01:30Z

Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


I then drilled the flange for some 1/4" hardware and temporarily bolted the snorkel in place.  I still need to do some trimming at the upper end to provide room for the filter.



]]> tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.899 2012-01-19T07:44:03Z 2012-01-20T08:57:27Z

I pulled the starter off the engine and filed off the two lower lugs to provide clearance for the snorkel.You can see here that with the snorkel in place and the lugs gone, there is right at 1/8" of clearance...

Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


You can see here that with the snorkel in place and the lugs gone, there is right at 1/8" of clearance between the starter and the snorkel.  This is the minimum clearance specified by the plans, and I needed to get it this tight to allow the snorkel to swing up far enough to place the inlet in the best part of the ramp.



]]> tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.898 2012-01-17T05:38:19Z 2012-01-17T09:14:16Z

Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


And here's the inner connecting rod on the right side of the engine.



Next, I got started fitting the snorkel.  The engine air inlet on this engine is in the front left ramp.  The air will flow through an air filter and then down through the snorkel and into the fuel injection servo here.  I took off the cover plate and measured the size of the hole.



The hole in the snorkel is 2.400".  I took a roll of electrical tape and added some masking tape until this was just under that size.



I then taped the roll of tape to the front of the servo so that I could temporarily fit the snorkel.



The aft face of the snorkel isn't sitting flush with the face of the fuel injection servo.



This is part of the problem.  The lower right lug on the starter is interfering with the snorkel.



And this is the rest of the problem.  Because of the shape of the snorkel, it interferes with the alternator mount.



I took a cutoff saw and removed most of the offending starter lug.  I'll probably end up pulling the starter and removing the entire lug or lugs once I know for sure which ones need to be trimmed.



I also roughed out the cutout that needs to be made to clear the alternator mount.



I ended up having to cut even more from the snorkel to clear the alternator bracket.  I'll cover this with glass once I know the final shape.



Finally, I spent a little time trimming the top of the snorkel.  I still have a bit more to do to shift the opening far enough inboard to clear the conical gussets.



]]> tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.897 2012-01-16T05:38:19Z 2012-01-17T08:54:25Z

Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


I put a fairly healthy curve in the rods.  This way they stay fairly straight even under tension.



Here's the one on the right side of the engine.  Both outer rods touch the cylinder head oil return lines, but the curve I put in the rods causes it to just touch the oil line, not put pressure on it.  That plus the plastic cover on the rods should eliminate any abrasion on the oil lines.



]]> tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.896 2012-01-15T05:38:19Z 2012-01-17T08:40:55Z

Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


]]> tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.895 2012-01-14T07:41:40Z 2012-01-14T09:04:27Z

Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


]]> tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.894 2012-01-12T07:46:51Z 2012-01-12T08:32:15Z

Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


Here's the right conical gusset.  These ended up fitting really nicely.  There quite a bit harder to install now since they're so big.  They wrap from the centerline of the engine just behind the prop around the side of the engine and back past the front most cylinders.



]]> tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.893 2012-01-10T07:46:51Z 2012-01-12T08:20:38Z

I used some baffle seal material to position the conical gussets and side baffles, then drilled the gussets to the ramps and side baffles.With the conical gussets in place, the front baffles are significantly stiffer....

Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


With the conical gussets in place, the front baffles are significantly stiffer.



]]> tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.892 2012-01-09T07:46:51Z 2012-01-12T08:13:39Z

Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/ this entry).  Although it was safety wired, that didn't prevent it from unscrewing and bouncing around behind the engine.  I recently found out that Andair made this nice machines tach cover with integral o-ring.  I swapped it out and safety wired it to the same spot on the engine.  There's no way this is coming off.



I fabricated the three front ramp support brackets.  This is the one that ties the right ramp to the right center baffle.  I left the bottom flange long on both ends until I know the left-right position of the vertical face.  I'll then drill this to the right ramp and cut the ends of the flange parallel with the angle on the left.



These are the brackets that tie the left ramp to the left center baffle.  I positioned the vertical face against the side of the lower cowl inlet (with a piece of baffle seal between them) and then drilled the support on the left to lock in the position.  I then pulled the lower cowl and back drilled the support on the right through the existing hole in the ramp and support that sits just under the ramp.  I then pulled the bracket and drilled two more holes in line with that hole and then match drilled them to the ramp.  Getting all of this in the right position was a little tricky until I figured out the order, but everything worked out nicely.



I deburred everything and riveted the support brackets to the ramps and front center baffles.  The plans call for universal rivets here, but I might have to swap the rivets on the left bracket out for flush head since the baffle seal material will rest here.



Here's the bracket for the right ramp.



]]> tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.891 2012-01-06T07:02:06Z 2012-01-07T06:55:03Z

Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


Next, I riveted the mounting angle to the front ramp support.



This is attached to the side of the engine just behind the flywheel.



I then drilled and riveted the support to the front left ramp.  Notice that the center hole is left empty.  This is because the front baffle wall gusset will be riveted through this same hole.



]]> tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.890 2012-01-02T07:02:06Z 2012-01-07T06:46:29Z

Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


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