Jason Beaver's RV-7 Project tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2008-07-01:/rv7//5 2012-05-17T15:45:37Z Movable Type Open Source 4.1 Started Fitting Interior tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.952 2012-05-15T07:51:57Z 2012-05-17T15:45:37Z Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


I marked the centerline of the hinge inline with the stick and then installed the hinge so that the centerline is visible through the pre-drilled center rivet hole on the seat flange.



I then installed the sides and seat backs.  The baggage area panels are currently just sitting in place to see how they fit before installing them for good.



The side panels are comprised of three pieces, the upper light gray panel with the integrated armrest and two lower dark gray panels.



The baggage area panels includes the flooring carpet, side panels, and two back panels.



Unfortunately, there are several areas where the floor is visible between parts of the seats and carpet.  I'll have to paint these parts of the floor dark gray to match the carpet.



]]> Miscellaneous Interior Stuff tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.951 2012-05-14T06:08:11Z 2012-05-14T07:30:47Z Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


I only have a little work left to do in the tail, so I put the lower baggage wall in place to that I could fit the interior.



Part of the flange needed to be trimmed to clear the wiring and tubing that I installed near the front edge of this rib for some reason.  There was no good reason I couldn't have installed this near the back of the rib.



I then put the experimental sticker on the upper baggage wall and installed it.  I'll generally have the upholstery cover over this, but I installed it anyway since I'll likely fly without most of the interior during testing.



]]> Riveted Firewall Flanges and Wrapping Up Wiring tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.950 2012-05-13T06:28:17Z 2012-05-13T08:54:08Z Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


I ended up having to move the cigarette lighter plug from just below the forward canopy deck to just below the right edge of the center subpanel.  The old location interfered with the heater valve control cable.



I installed a couple of adel clamps above the VP-X to anchor the main wiring bundle that crosses over the top.



I also buttoned up the pilot's side headset jack wiring.  You can also see that the capacitive fuel sender wire follows the vent tube down to the exit hole.



Here's the backside of the cigarette lighter jack.  I grounded the jack locally to the subpanel.



I also wrapped up all of the wiring beneath the seats.  The hardest bit was getting the final adel clamp installed between the forward elevator pushrod.  After that, I installed a few more zip-ties to keep everything tight.  The wiring under the seats is completely done now.



]]> Reinstalled Subpanel Components tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.949 2012-05-12T06:28:16Z 2012-05-13T08:24:04Z Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


]]> Machined Bucking Bar for Remaining Firewall Rivets tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.948 2012-05-10T06:28:17Z 2012-05-13T08:16:17Z Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


Here's the modified bucking bar.  I'll know soon enough if it will work.



]]> Reinstalled Subpanel and Radio Stack tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.947 2012-05-09T05:17:55Z 2012-05-10T07:02:02Z Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


]]> Painted Interior tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.946 2012-05-07T05:37:58Z 2012-05-07T07:41:07Z Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


I primed all of the flap cover pieces.  On the right is the flap motor wrapped up with paper towels.  I primed the head of the bolt that will be visible on the outside of the flap motor support.  On the far right is a piece of cardboard with a couple of #6 screws that are used to attach the flap position sensor.  I'm painting them as well so they blend in.



I masked off the interior and primed everything that will be painted.  I'm only painting the parts that won't be covered by the Classic Aero Designs interior.



The canopy decks were primed up to the subpanel.



After that dried for a few hours, I painted everything with some paint that I had color matched to the leather used in the upholstery.



You can see here that I also painted the canopy latch torque tube since it's visible between the seats and when the seat backs are pulled forward.



I put four coats of paint on (as specified by Stewart Systems).  This seems like a lot, but the first coat is a translucent tack coat with two more fairly light coats before the final heavier coat.  This greatly reduces runs since the early coats are very sticky.



]]> Misc Flap Related Tasks tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.945 2012-04-30T05:37:57Z 2012-05-07T07:22:25Z Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


I also drilled a hole in the flap motor bearing and safety wired it to the tube.  The bearing rocks back and forth as the motor goes up and down, and if this comes loose, it can come completely unscrewed.



]]> Cabin/Panel Area Riveting tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.944 2012-04-26T06:18:53Z 2012-04-26T06:46:57Z I came out before work this morning and riveted the outer subpanel sections to the side bulkheads and the ribs.I was able to use the straight set to shoot solid rivets in all of the holes tying these to the... Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


I was able to use the straight set to shoot solid rivets in all of the holes tying these to the bulkheads.



The side subpanel sections are riveted to the forward ribs using only two flush head rivets to provide a flat space for the hinge bushing block to be installed.



Andre dropped by in the evening and we knocked out the forward and aft canopy decks.  There were only a few challenging rivets where there isn't much room to buck, but we managed to get solid rivets in every hole without too much pain.  You can see on the other side that we also riveted the fresh air vent brackets to the side of the fuselage.



We also riveted the armrests.  There's still some give to these, so I don't want passengers to push down on them when getting out of the plane, but they're way stronger than the stock Van's design.



After Andre left, I finished pop-riveting the F-704 cap strips in place.



]]> Primed Forward Fuselage Components tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.943 2012-04-25T06:14:24Z 2012-04-25T08:42:13Z Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


While I had everything undone from the subpanel and forward ribs, I installed nutplates everywhere I'm using screws to attach things to the subpanel.  The ones along the bottom here are to attach adel clamps that support the wiring harness.



I also installed a few on the right rib to support the battery and essential bus blocks.  If I ever have to remove these or any of the adel clamps, it will be much if I don't have to simultaneously get a wrench on the nut.



]]> Riveted Side Skin and Roll Bar Support tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.942 2012-04-23T06:11:03Z 2012-04-23T08:42:12Z Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


We then riveted these support plates to the longerons and seat support bulkhead.  The beefy angles I modified yesterday are installed under here to transfer any roll-over loads into the rest of the structure.



The angles are also riveted to the front face of the bulkhead.  We managed to rivet all of the these without removing the latch or the microswitch by using the double offset rivet set.



We also riveted these angles to the front side of the bulkhead to support the canopy latch bellcrank.



]]> Prepped Canopy Rails for Riveting tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.941 2012-04-22T06:19:19Z 2012-04-22T09:46:17Z Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


The forward and aft canopy rails are then riveted together with a couple of AN3 rivets.



Once the canopy rails are riveted to the longerons, it's really tough to get a wrench behind them to tighten down the canopy strut attach brackets.



By positioning the nutplates this way, most of the rivets will be hidden behind the bracket.



The beefy angles that sit under the roll bar need to be notched to clear the rivets that attach the forward end of the skin that wraps around the rear window.



The also riveted the fresh air vent brackets to the angles that will attach them to the side skins.



]]> Prepped Center Subpanel tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.940 2012-04-21T06:48:19Z 2012-04-21T09:17:13Z Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


There's an additional K1000-08 at the forward end of the center rib to support the parking brake cable as it arcs across the firewall.



Finally, I riveted the ribs and attach angles to the aft side of the center subpanel.  Other than priming, this is done.



]]> Removed Subpanel tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.939 2012-04-20T06:50:52Z 2012-04-20T09:03:37Z Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/
I'm really glad I chose to run all of the wiring through adel clamps suspended from the bottom of the subpanel and ribs instead of through them.  It's made it relatively trivial to pull the subpanel out to trim it or install nutplates.

After pulling this out, I installed most of the nutplates before calling it a night.  I should be able to finish that up and have them primed and reinstalled by this weekend.



]]> Removed Panel tag:www.jasonbeaver.com,2012:/rv7//5.938 2012-04-18T06:16:32Z 2012-04-18T08:45:44Z Jason http://www.jasonbeaver.com/


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