I used some sanding paper wrapped around various diameters of PVC pipe to sand the filler down and create a smooth transition across the gap.

There’s still a bunch more filler that needs to be applied before these are ready for primer, but I’m pretty happy with the basic shape.

I trimmed the flanges so that there is only 1/4″ of underlap on the aft half of the fairing.

You can see in this picture and the one above that the aft intersection fairing doesn’t extend far enough forward in some spots.  I’ll take care of that with some filler.

I applied a couple of layers of electrical tape to the aft edge of the forward half of the wheel pant and then installed everything to lock it into position.

I mixed up some lightweight filler with flox for strength and filled in the low spots.

I squeezed some into the gap on the underside since the gap was uneven.

Here are the cured flanges on the inside of the right wheel pant. I still need to trim these so that there is just 1/4″ of overlap or so.

On the outside, you can see how I let the glass run long so that I can make a nice straight cut along the upper edge around the gear leg fairing.

I needed to create some overlap on the flanges of the lower intersection fairings to prevent them from lifting in the slipstream, so I taped up the forward flange and then laid up some glass over the joint so it will bond to the aft flange.

On the right forward pant, I needed to extend the flange before I can create the overlap.  I taped up a piece of thick paper and then attached it to the flange.  I then laid some additional glass over the paper to form the extended flange.

I ordered a set of cowl inlet plugs from Bruce’s Custom Covers.  They look great and fit like a glove.