December 2012 Archives

I made one last little tweak to the plenum to get the inner edge of the right inlet to lay flush against the baffles.  I used some 5 minute epoxy so that it would be cured enough to do the rest of the layups later in the day.



While I was waiting for that to cure, I installed the blast tube for the magneto.  It's anchored to the breather tube and is sitting about 1/4" above the mag.



In preparation for doing the additional layups, I hot-glued the plenum down to the mounting angles.



I then laid up three layers of 9 oz glass using the high-temp epoxy.  I'll see how stiff this is tomorrow and will add a layer of carbon fiber if it's not stiff enough.



The new Dynon ADS-B receiver started shipping today and I got my order in early enough that it will be shipped tomorrow.  This will add ADS-B traffic and weather to the SkyView system and will be the last piece of avionics that I add to the plane before it flies.  It should be here within a few days.
I popped the plenum off the mounting angles (releasing the hot glue I had used to attach it).  I then trimmed most of the excess glass off of the edges.



I then laid out and drilled pilot holes for all of the attach screws that will attach the plenum.  I put holes at all of the corners and will use nutplates that span the joints.



I drilled the plenum to the mounting angles through the holes I drilled in them yesterday.  I shined a light through the plenum so that I could see the holes.  They're only drilled out to #40 now, but I'll open them up for #8 screws once the mounting angles are riveted and I know everything is in it's final location.  The spacing varies somewhat around the perimeter based on the length of the various mounting angles, but they're predominantly between 1 5/8" and 1 7/8".  They're tighter at the front outside corners where the plenum turns sharply downward.



I pulled the plenum and baffles off so that I could rivet the mounting angles to the baffles.  The engine hasn't been this naked in a very long time.



I started cleaning up and riveting the mounting angles to the baffles.  The mounting angles need quite a bit of time with the deburring disks on the die grinder due to the fairly deep marks put in them by the shinker/stretch dies.  Notice that the aft rivet (on the far right in this picture is flush on the outside because the #4 cylinder baffle tucks in here.



I drilled holes in the sides of the fuselage for the wing wire runs and fished them through along with a grommet.  To keep the wires out of the way, I coiled them up and tucked them back into the aileron push-rod hole.



The wing tip wiring will go straight into the wing wiring conduit from the hole I drilled, but the roll servo cable turns forward from there and then needs to go up to a hole near the top of the wing to route down to the servo.  I pop-riveted a wire clamp to the side of the fuselage to anchor the cable and keep it away from the aileron pushrod.

I also received the Dynon ADS-B receiver today and spent some time deciding where to mount it.  There's basically no place up front that is easily accessible since I'm trying to make sure that every box in the plane can be accessed and removed if necessary.  I ended up deciding to order one of Van's ELT mounts that fits between the left side stringers and mount it there.  It's a fairly short run of coax from there back to where the UAT antenna will be mounted about 2' behind the transponder antenna.



I decided to replace the Curtis quick drain on the right that came with my engine with the one from Saf-Air.  Not only is it better made, double sealed and rebuildable, but it's 2 3/8 oz lighter!  That's a huge weight savings for only $80.  There are other parts on the plane that I spent hours on trying to shave out less weight than this simple change.



Here's the valve installed and safety-wired.



I drilled the mounting bracket to the left side stringers.  I then drilled the bracket for the ADS-B receiver mounting holes.



Mounted ADS-B Receiver

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I installed the nutplates on the mounting bracket and then put a coat of self-etching primer on it.  I had to fabricate a little spacer to be able to set the LP4-3 rivets since the flange of the stringers prevent the nose of the hand riveter from fitting down flush against the top of the rivet.



I fabricated a small antenna doubler for the UAT antenna, then drilled it to the bottom of the fuselage.  I mounted this 2' aft of the transponder antenna, just behind the next bulkhead and right on the aircraft centerline.



Jenn came out and helped me rivet the UAT antenna doubler and install the antenna.



I fabricated the antenna cable and installed it.  It routes along the bulkhead and then...



up to the stringer and forward to the receiver.  I also installed the power, ground and serial lines.



Finally, I fired it up and was able to get weather even sitting in my garage.  I only waited long enough to let the regional weather load, but you can see the storms out to the north 100-200 miles away.  You can see in the lower left corner that the regional weather is 4 minutes old and it's still receiving.  With this done, I'm finished with the avionics (for now at least).



Included with the SkyView 5.0 software update is an update to the transponder that moves it from TSO C166a to TSO C166b compliance.  This means it's fully compliant with the 2020 ADS-B mandate for 1090ES.  Installing the software update requires that the transponder be simultaneously labelled to indicate TSO C166b approval.  Apparently, not applying the label renders the transponder unairworthy according to the FAA.



The right side mag wires were unsupported all the way from the engine mount on the right side to the magneto and were hanging just below the oil filter where they will be in the way during oil changes.  I used a couple of adel clamps to secure the wires to the fitting on the lower oil cooler line to keep them forward of the oil cooler.  This will also keep them from rubbing on anything as they pass under the oil filter.



The wires on the left side and the mixture cable were running against the oil cooler flange, so I needed to secure them to prevent them from rubbing.  The angle is wrong for an adel clamp without using a bracket, so I just used a large tefzel zip tie.  I added a small piece of spiral wrap around the mixture cable to provide a little cushion.



I riveted all of the plenum mounting angles to the baffles over the past couple of days then reinstalled them on the engine and drilled the plenum mounting holes out for #8 screws.



I'm installing nutplates that span all of the corners, so I installed them on the outside in order to drill the rivet holes.



After countersinking the holes, I riveted the nutplates on.  I only did the corners while the baffles were mounted on the engine since there is some relative movement when the baffles are off the engine.  I still have to install nutplates on all of the other holes, but that can happen when the baffles come off the engine for the last time.



In order to be able to remove the air filter without removing the snorkel, I trimmed the inboard edge of the ramp back about 1/4" so that the filter can be lifted and twisted out (as long as all of the surrounding screws are loosened.



I then used a piece of 0.032" aluminum sheet to fabricate a filter retainer that will get screwed down when the snorkel is screwed to the ramp.  I may trim this back a little further as this is more than long enough to prevent the filter from lifting.



I installed the remaining nutplates on the plenum mounting angles.  After a little final edge deburring, this will be ready for priming and painting.



I picked up some carbon fiber at TAP Plastics and added an additional layer to the plenum.  Hopefully this will stiffen it up enough.  Otherwise, I'll end up adding some ribs on the bottom side.



Painted and Prepped Baffles

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I took these pictures with my iPhone, and somehow they came out upside down.  Regardless, I stopped by the Tech Shop and used their spray booth to prime and paint the baffles so that they will match the engine mount.  I also primed all of the mounting brackets and the oil cooler butterfly valve components.



After I got home, I used some RTV to seal up all of the gaps where air could leak through and wouldn't help with engine cooling.



Installed Baffles

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With the baffles finished and the RTV cured, I reinstalled the baffles and installed all of the fasteners for good with lock washers.



Where the Lightspeed cable passes around the forward baffle attach bracket, I squirted a large blob of RTV sealant to keep the cable away from the flywheel and the bracket.



With the baffles installed for good, I installed the Lightspeed primary ignition wires.



Wrapped Up Baffles

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With the baffles installed for good, I wanted to wrap up everything that attaches to them.  Here's the heater air supply duct.  You can also see that I put torque seal on all of the screws that attach the baffles.  I had to remove and reinstall the oil filler tube to get to one of the screws.



I then installed all of the baffle connecting rods.  The rear nut on the left, inner rod was a real pain in the ass with all of the stuff in the way, but I eventually got it.



I hooked up the alternator cooling duct to the bottom of the baffles.



After torquing both ends of the propeller oil line, I reinstalled the support on the bottom of the engine (the shiny clamp on the left here).  I also installed the alternator cooling duct support for good and torqued everything down.



I also reinstalled the butterfly valve and 4" duct feeding it and hooked up the control cable for good.  I need to order one more worm clamp for the top and this will be done.



Finally, I installed the magneto blast duct to the back of the baffles.  I still need to seal up all of the gaps in the baffles with RTV, but other than that, the baffles are done.



I clamped some scrap angle with a radius on it to the heater box cover so that I could bend out all of the vents.



This will direct hot air from the engine down into the left and right footwells.



I also needed a notch on the right side to clear the heater box control cable where it passes through one of the firewall stiffeners.



I also cut a notch in the forward cover for the throttle cable.  I'll clean this up and install a grommet to protect the cable.



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This page is an archive of entries from December 2012 listed from newest to oldest.

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