Finished Drilling Rudder
This looks a lot like the picture from yesterday, but now the rudder has been fully drilled and is ready for disassembly and prep for riveting.
After disassembling, I drilled the rudder counterweight to the R-912 counterbalance rib, dimpled the rib and countersunk the lead weight to accommodate the dimples.
You have to make the rudder bottom attach strips from a piece of 0.032" alclad. Basically, you just cut these to 18" and trim the corner as specified.
Here are the strips, temporarily clamped to the R-904 bottom rib to match drill with the existing holes. Holes in the lower half of this strip will be drilled in conjunction with the fiberglass rudder bottom.
The R-913 counterbalance skin in 0.032", and because the rudder skin is 0.016", the overlap can cause a visible joggle in the rudder skin. Beveling the two points on each side of the counterbalance skin where these two skins overlap with the underlying structure smoothes out this transition.
After disassembling, I drilled the rudder counterweight to the R-912 counterbalance rib, dimpled the rib and countersunk the lead weight to accommodate the dimples.
You have to make the rudder bottom attach strips from a piece of 0.032" alclad. Basically, you just cut these to 18" and trim the corner as specified.
Here are the strips, temporarily clamped to the R-904 bottom rib to match drill with the existing holes. Holes in the lower half of this strip will be drilled in conjunction with the fiberglass rudder bottom.
The R-913 counterbalance skin in 0.032", and because the rudder skin is 0.016", the overlap can cause a visible joggle in the rudder skin. Beveling the two points on each side of the counterbalance skin where these two skins overlap with the underlying structure smoothes out this transition.
0 TrackBacks
Listed below are links to blogs that reference this entry: Finished Drilling Rudder.
TrackBack URL for this entry: http://www.jasonbeaver.com/mt/mt-tb.cgi/55
Leave a comment